The Best Week in the French Riviera: Sun, Sea, and Old Town Charm

We are spending a week in the French Riviera visiting Nice, Monaco and Menton. It’s time for sun, sea and old town charm. Nice is our home base to explore the area. The Côte d’Azur, also known as the French Riviera, is one of Europe’s most glamorous coastal regions. It’s famous for its sun-drenched beaches, turquoise waters, and elegant seaside towns.

Our travel day from Barcelona to Nice is a train ride of 10 1/2 hours and two connections. But everything went smoothly. We had a 2 1/2 hour lunch break between trains in Montpelier, France so it did break up the day.

Planning train travel in advance

Many of you have asked me how I organize and book our train travel across several countries. Usually, if all of our train travel is in the same country, I book everything directly with their national railway. For example, in Spain it’s Renfe and for France it’s SNCF. Just look for the English button on their site or use your browser’s translation feature. Then easily navigate and search for tickets, time tables and prices. Sometimes it can be difficult to book tickets across multiple countries on the national lines. Sometimes, they may not show all availability and options with other carriers.

I also book European train tickets directly with Trainline. They partner with over 200 railways in 40 countries. You can easily research your journey that crosses borders on the same site. Note that some tickets are free to book, while others have a booking fee of 1-4%. Once you find the journey and train schedule that suits you, you can book directly with Trainline. You can pay the small fee listed, or compare pricing directly with the other national carriers (no service fee). Though you may need to use multiple rail carriers for your full journey.

All carriers now have apps that easily keep you updated, connected and store your tickets, so it’s very convenient. FYI, we do not get paid to advertise Trainline, nor do we receive commissions. I just wanted to share my experience booking European train tickets multiple ways. There are many other sites like Trainline, but I haven’t tried any others.

Quick tips for best ticket pricing

The best train ticket prices are usually 60-90 days in advance. Since I primarily book tickets in France, I generally use SNCF. I like their “ticket alerts” feature that notifies you of ticket sales and newly available tickets on a previously full train for your specific journey. It’s very easy today to research and book online while getting the best price. I have also used Trainline when booking multi-country journeys with great success.

Why choose the French Riviera?

This breathtaking stretch of coastline along the Mediterranean is brimming with beauty and charm. From the vibrant streets and beachside promenades of Nice to the opulence and luxury of Monaco, and the lively and colorful atmosphere of Menton, this region offers a diverse range of experiences.  These are only a few of the many incredible places to see while you’re here.

What I love most is how easy it is to slow down here—whether you’re sipping wine by the sea, wandering through old town alleys, or just soaking up those incredible coastal views. It’s the kind of place that feels effortlessly beautiful, where every corner looks like a postcard and every day feels like a mini escape.

The Riviera is roughly 400-500 miles of Mediterranean coast that is easy to travel without a car with lots of public transportation (buses and trains) available. It receives approximately 300 days of sunshine per year and is often referred to as a “playground for the rich and famous”. However, it can also be enjoyed on a budget.

Sights around Nice

Nice is the fifth largest city in France with a population of 418,000. Over 5 million tourists visit each year. There are many things to see and do, but I’ll share a few of the highlights we enjoyed. We checked in late the first evening after our long train ride from Barcelona. Our apartment overlooked the Vieux Port or Old Port area. These are pictures from our balcony.

After we enjoyed an Easter brunch, we wandered around Vieux Nice, the historic old quarter to explore the beautiful streets, alleyways, shops and buildings.

The yellow building below is the Chapel of the Holy Sepulcher (1782-1784). Note that painters created all the decorations on the buildings. Only the shutters are real. The illusionist painting technique, trompe l’oeil, makes the columns beneath the windows and the surrounding details appear convincingly real.

At the center of each arcade, three cannonballs that had been fired by the Turkish fleet during the siege of Nice in 1543 are mounted on hooks.

Nice Cathedral

Nice Cathedral (Sainte Reparate Cathedral) is a Catholic Cathedral. The construction of the main part of the current cathedral’s body started in 1650 and finished in 1685. The Cathedral stands on the site of an earlier 13th-century church. It takes its name from a Palestinian girl named Reparata. In the 3rd century, at just 15 years old, persecutors targeted her for her religious beliefs and beheaded her. Today, her relic is displayed on the altar of the chapel shown in the last photo.

Gelato

No visit to Nice is complete without stopping at Fenocchio, a beloved gelateria in the heart of the Old Town just adjacent to the Nice Cathedral. Founded in 1966 and family run by three generations, it has become something of a local institution. It’s famous for its 96+ incredible variety of flavors—ranging from classic chocolate and vanilla to more unusual options like lavender, thyme, or even tomato-basil. Over the decades, Fenocchio has built its reputation on traditional, artisanal methods, making it a favorite for both locals and visitors. Sitting in the lively square with a cone in hand, it’s easy to see why this spot is such a sweet part of Nice’s history. I have one word—delicious!

Promenade des Anglais

Next on our agenda is to stroll down the Promenade des Anglais (1824). This boulevard is a wide, inviting space with lanes for pedestrians, cyclists, and automobiles, gracefully curving along the azure sea for about 4.5 miles from the old center to the airport. We arrived Easter weekend with beautiful weather and there are people out everywhere.

Here’s a great view of the palm tree lined promenade from the top of Castle Hill.

When walking along the promenade, look out for miniature Statute of Liberty. It’s not a fake one as it bears the signature of Bartholdi. He’s the artist responsible for the original Statue of Liberty. Nice currently houses the last replica and one of the earliest versions of Lady Liberty. These “original” replicas exist because the artist created them in stages, gradually increasing their size before finally presenting this iconic symbol of freedom to the United States. I’ve previously posted on two other statues: a Statue of Liberty in Paris and one in Poitiers, France.

L’Ange de la Baie

L’ange de la Baie is a sculpture on the Promenade des Anglais to memorialize the lives lost during a terrorist attack in Nice on Bastille Day, July 14, 2016. A terrorist drove a truck into the crowd resulting in the tragic loss of 86 lives and causing injuries to over 400 individuals. According to the artist, Jean-Marie Fondacaro, the sculpture represents “a wave, which falls on the seafront” on which is engraved the heart composed of the names of the victims “under the protection of the wave.” And a figure, half-man half-bird, who seems ready to take flight “like an angel.”

Castle Hill

Castle Hill, also known as the Colline du Château, dominates the city of Nice and divides the city’s seaside into two distinct regions: the eastern part, which houses the port, and the western part, which is home to the Old Town of Nice. Constructed on top a hill, it served as a vantage point overlooking the bay of Nice from the 11th century until the 18th century. What amazing views over the sea and city. But do your feet a favor and take the free elevator up and walk down. Enjoy the waterfall (and maybe some champagne) when you reach the top. Don’t miss the cemetery (1783) on the hill that is open to visit before you head down.

If you happen to be on the hill, every day at noon a loud explosion can be heard in Nice. Don’t panic, it’s just the Nice cannon. It has occurred since the 1860s. The cannon blast, now replaced by a colossal firecracker in the 1990s, is launched from the top of the Chateau. Every day that is except for April Fool’s Day, where it goes off at the wrong time as a prank. 

Antique Market & Brocantes

Every Monday there is an antiques Market in Cours Saleya. Six days a week this is a fruit and flower market, but on Mondays approximately 300 stalls of antiques (brocantes) sellers move in for the day. There are lots of people out shopping today and rummaging for treasures.

There is also a small flea market, a collection of shops, near the port called Les Puces de Nice, which is open Tuesday-Saturday. Here’s a list of other places to go antiquing in Nice.

Place Massena and Paillon Promenade

Place Massena is Nice’s largest and main square. It’s located between the Old Town (Vieux Nice), the shopping street Avenue Jean Médecin, and the green corridor of the Promenade du Paillon. The promenade includes a water mirror where shallow water jets create a reflective surface that mirrors the sky and surrounding architecture. There are gardens, playgrounds, and open lawns. It’s a perfect picnic spot or place to stroll.

Monaco

There are direct trains to Monaco daily about every 15 minutes from Nice for about 6 euros each way and takes 15-20 minutes. The perfect day trip from Nice. It is the second smallest country in the world (after the Vatican), measuring only 0.77 square  miles. You can actually walk across the entire country in under an hour. Despite its size, Monaco is famously wealthy. It has no personal income tax for residents.

 The ruling family, the House of Grimaldi, has governed for over 700 years. We visited their official residence, the Prince’s Palace of Monaco and watched the daily changing of the guard.

Monaco-Ville (Old Town)

Monaco-Ville—also known as “Le Rocher” (“The Rock”)—is the historic heart of Monaco. Perched high above the sea, it still feels like a medieval village, with its narrow pedestrian streets, quiet passageways, and beautifully preserved old houses that have stood for generations. Wandering through its lanes, you’ll find a charming mix of hotels, restaurants, and souvenir shops, perfect for soaking up the atmosphere at a relaxed pace.

Beyond its postcard views, Monaco-Ville is home to some of the principality’s most important landmarks. Visitors can explore the Prince’s Palace of Monaco, admire the Monaco Cathedral, discover marine life at the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco, or stroll through the peaceful Saint Martin Gardens. With its blend of history, culture, and scenic beauty, Monaco-Ville feels like stepping back in time while still being at the center of modern Monaco.

Monaco Cathedral

Monaco Cathedral (1875) stands on the site of a 13th-century earlier church. This church, dedicated to Saint Nicholas, houses the remains of former Princes of Monaco and Princess Grace Kelly.

Monte Carlo Casino

After wandering around old town Monaco we headed down to visit the Monte Carlo Casino. It includes a casino, the Opéra de Monte-Carlo, and the office of Les Ballets de Monte-Carlo. If you want to gamble, you must be well-dressed, have your passport in hand, pay an entrance fee, and place a minimum bet of $5.00. However, you can visit the lobby, shops and the Casino bar. Sadly, the front facade is under renovation today.

Menton, France

Perched on the edge of the sparkling Mediterranean, this charming hidden gem sits right on the border with Italy. Another great day trip from Nice, it’s about 30 minutes and 8 euros by train. Home to roughly 30,000 residents, Menton feels intimate and relaxed compared to its glitzier neighbors. But it retains the same Riviera beauty. Known as the “Pearl of France,” it enjoys over 300 days of sunshine each year, which helps its famous citrus groves flourish—especially the lemons celebrated during its lively annual Lemon Festival. With pastel houses cascading down toward the sea and a blend of French and Italian culture shaping daily life, Menton offers a slower, more authentic slice of the Côte d’Azur.

Originally, Menton belonged to the Principality of Monaco. In 1848, during a wave of revolutions across Europe, the people of Menton rebelled against Monaco’s rule—largely due to high taxes, especially on lemons, which were central to the local economy. France officially purchased Menton in 1861. During World War II, Menton was the only French city fully occupied and annexed by Italy.

Menton Old Town (Vieille Ville) & the Beach

We wandered through narrow, winding streets lined with pastel houses climbing up from the sea. It’s the heart of Menton’s character, full of hidden squares, cafés, markets and amazing views. The promenade de la mer makes for an excellent walk along the Sablettes beach.

Les Rampes Saint-Michel and the Basilica

Undoubtedly, the most photographed spot is this enormous staircase, Les rampes (1753), linking the Basilica of Saint-Michel (1653) to the seaside. In 2006, over 250,000 pebbles found on local beaches were set by hand to create a lovely pattern on the ground in front. This project required more than a year of work. Once we climbed to the top, and after we finally caught our breath, the views are incredible.

Cemetery of the Old Castle

The Cemetery of the old Castle is Menton’s oldest cemetery. Constructed in the early 1800s on the ruins of a 13th-century castle, the cemetery offers breathtaking views of the coastline and mountains. Although the château itself has vanished, the cemetery itself is a stunning sight. It’s even regarded as one of the most beautiful cemeteries in France.

Summary about our week on the French Riviera

Our week on the French Riviera is everything we had hoped for and more—a perfect blend of sunshine, sparkling sea views, and timeless charm. Sharing the experience with friends made each moment even richer, from leisurely mornings in the apartment overlooking the port to leisure dinners as the sun set. The weather was ideal, casting a golden glow over everything and inviting us to fully embrace the relaxed Mediterranean pace.

What made this trip truly unforgettable is the balance between vibrant seaside energy and the quiet beauty of old town streets. Wandering through narrow alleys, discovering hidden cafés, and pausing to take in sweeping views of the coastline gave us a deeper appreciation for the region’s character and history.

As the week came to a close, we found ourselves already reminiscing—grateful for the shared memories, the warmth of the sun, and the simple joy of being together in such a beautiful place. The French Riviera didn’t just meet our expectations; it left us inspired, refreshed, and dreaming of a return.

We say goodbye to Tom & Cary today, as they travel to Paris before flying home. Next up for us as we continue on our journey is two weeks in Lyon. So, stay tuned for our next post.

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