Our Slow Travel Love Story with Paris
Some cities impress you once and leave behind a beautiful memory. But Paris does something different. It quietly calls us back. Not because we need to check famous landmarks off a list. We came back because Paris feels different when you stop trying to “see it all” and simply start living in it. There’s just something about Paris that encourages a slow travel love story with us.
It doesn’t matter how many countries we visit. Or how many beautiful towns we stumble across around the world. Paris keeps calling us back. It’s like an old friend waiting at the corner café.
The first few times we visited Paris, we rushed from monument to monument like many travelers do. We stood beneath the glowing lights of the Eiffel Tower. We admired masterpieces inside the Louvre Museum and walked the busy avenues packed with tourists carrying cameras and guidebooks. I snapped photos faster than we could enjoy the moment. It’s always magical, of course, but we quickly realized Paris is best experienced slowly.
A daily ritual
Instead of rushing out the door every morning, we started our days slowly. We lingered over coffee and read the paper in the apartment. Exactly like our mornings in Houston. A morning ritual of raising the blinds and opening the balcony doors became routine and comforting. Afterwards, we’d enjoy our first sip of coffee. Occasionally, we’d enjoy pastries at tiny neighborhood cafés while locals walked their dogs and shopkeepers busied themselves for the day.
Some days, we had nowhere specific to go at all. We simply wandered. At some neighborhood cafés we heard locals greet each other and the staff by name. We discovered that some of our favorite moments in Paris had nothing to do with major attractions at all. Instead, they happened while wandering quiet side streets, or picking up fresh pastries from a corner boulangerie. Honestly, those became our favorite days.
The little details
One of the greatest joys of slow travel is noticing the little details. In Paris, those details are everywhere. The elegant balconies overflowing with flowers. The smell of butter and fresh bread floating from bakeries throughout the day. Elderly couples strolling through gardens that have existed for centuries. Even the métro somehow becomes part of the experience after a while. That’s the thing about Paris. The city rewards you when you stop trying to conquer it.
We spent afternoons by the Seine watching boats glide past while others gathered along the riverbanks with their picnic baskets. On another evening, we went out around sunset and watched the city slowly begin to glow. Those moments reminded us that Paris doesn’t reveal its true charm all at once. It unfolds gradually, rewarding travelers who stay long enough to notice.
Familiar favorites we never miss
The Eiffel Tower
There are many iconic landmarks in Paris. No matter how many times we visit, we still see a few of them again. We are lucky that we found an apartment rental a few years ago we absolutely love. It’s just two blocks from the Eiffel Tower. It has an incredible terrace for relaxing and dining, so we book it every time we visit. When we stay here, we see the Eiffel Tower daily and picnic frequently in the park surrounding it.
For a number of years now, the Eiffel Tower is a high security area. You go through metal detectors to enter the grounds and garden underneath. Note that there are separate lines to enter, depending on whether you have tickets to go up the tower. If you don’t have tickets, choose the Sans Billets entrance. It’s free to walk around without tickets, or you can buy tickets once inside. I wanted to take a few photos looking up from the ground into the center of the tower to give a different perspective.
Flea Markets
We arrived on a weekend. So, our first morning in Paris we went to my favorite flea market—Puces de Vanves. I’ve previously posted on my three favorite flea markets in Paris, so I won’t go into detail here. But antiquing will always be a fun past time for us and something I won’t miss when I’m in town.
A Walk Along the Seine
One of our favorite walks begins at the Eiffel Tower and follows the Seine all the way to Notre-Dame Cathedral. This route feels like moving through layers of French history. Leaving the iron lattice of the Eiffel Tower behind, the path winds past elegant bridges, bookstalls, and the dome of Les Invalides, where Napoleon is buried.
Further along, across the river is the Place de la Concorde with its Luxor Obelisk (3,300 BC). Then we see the National Assembly, the Musée d’Orsay, and the stately façade of the Louvre Museum. The Louvre first served as a royal palace before becoming one of the world’s greatest museums. The walk approaches Pont Neuf (1578-1607), ironically the oldest bridge in Paris despite its name meaning “New Bridge.” The towers of Notre-Dame soon rise above the Île de la Cité. Our journey felt less like a walk and more like a passage through centuries of art, revolution and everyday Parisian life.
Notre Dame Cathedral
We are standing in front of Notre-Dame de Paris for the first time since it reopened after the fire. It feels surreal that we have tickets to enter in a few minutes. Please do yourself a favor and reserve free tickets on the church’s website. You will have a guaranteed timed entry. If you just show up without tickets, you’ll stand in line to get in. They cap the number of people allowed to enter each day, so without a ticket you’re taking your chances.
The cathedral still carries the weight of what happened in 2019. Yet there is a quiet sense of resilience in every stone, stained-glass window, and echoing footstep inside its vast halls. As sunlight filtered through the rose windows, visitors stood silently, taking in the beauty that nearly disappeared forever. Walking through the cathedral was more than a sightseeing moment. It felt like witnessing history, loss, and renewal all at once in the heart of Paris. It is beautiful and the stone is white and pristine inside. They are still working on the outside, so it still has a way to go before it’s fully complete.
Exploring the Pedestrian Streets
There are quite a number of pedestrian streets that are always fun to explore. It’s great for shopping at the small markets and boutiques, as well as finding inexpensive meals away from the tourist sites. The closer you are to a popular tourist site, usually the food and drink prices increase. There’s also an abundance of “tourist trap” places with low to mediocre food at high prices. However, we’ve learned that if you walk a few blocks away you’ll find local small bistros with great food and prices.
Rue Mouffetard
This is one of my favorite pedestrian streets in Paris. Take my advice and start at the top of the hill (Place de la Contrescarpe) and walk downhill on Rue Mouffetard to Place Monge. The closest metro station at the top is Line 10 to Cardinal Lemoine. Historically, Rue Mouffetard dates to the 1st century AD, making it roughly 1,900–2,000 years old. It’s one of the oldest surviving streets in Paris. It originally formed part of a Roman road connecting ancient Lutetia (now Paris) with areas to the south.
Today, the narrow cobblestone street buzzes with life. Centuries-old buildings lean over the street, giving the area a timeless character. The gentle downhill walk makes it easy to slow down and soak in the atmosphere. By the time we reached Place Monge, we understood why Rue Mouffetard remains one of Paris’s most beloved and authentic streets.
Just don’t forget to stop along the way and try the delicious crepes, chocolate, gelato, wine, cheese and other treats. You’ll thank us for this suggestion. 😉
Food and Restaurants
Faste: Croque-Monsieur
OK, if you know us you also know we love a good croque-monsieur or croque-madame sandwich. In fact, I have to admit I make a pretty delicious one at home. If you’re not familiar with this French sandwich, a croque-monsieur is basically an elevated ham and cheese sandwich. But, it’s grilled, has bechamel sauce and shredded Gruyère or emmenthal cheese inside and out. The madame tops the sandwich with a sunny side up egg. So, when I heard about this highly rated, cozy croque café in Paris called Faste, it definitely made my “to do” list. We are so glad we had lunch there today.
Their website says it’s “the croque that kills”. We agree. They make their own croques, salads, and desserts. But, they make lots of different kinds of croques, which is unique. It’s so hard to decide which one you want to try. Good news is, they’ll let you order a half sandwich so you can try more than one kind. After all, there are 14 different flavors on the menu today.
So, what did we finally order? We shared two—the pastrami and the beef bourguignon. The pastrami came wth layers of pastrami, cheddar, sun dried tomatoes, cornichons, mustard, and bechamel. The bourguignon had red wine stewed beef, bacon, onions, and carrots with bechamel and cheese. Served hot from the oven with melted cheese, rich sauce and crispy toasted bread we loved both! We might have time to return and try the one with truffles, or mushrooms, coconut chicken, curry or salmon to name just a few. Delicious 😋
Marché des Enfants Rouges
The small Marché des Enfants-Rouges (1615) is the oldest covered market in Paris still in use today. Since we’ve never visited it before, it’s time to check out some of the food options for lunch. It’s a regular market to pick up food for a picnic. But it’s also crammed with bars, restaurants and food stalls. We decided to see if the social media buzz about LULU Crêperie, is justified. It’s very popular and there’s always a line. They are known for their oversized buckwheat galettes, prepared fresh to order with quality ingredients and generous fillings. These are huge, so bring an appetite. The crispy lattice edge is actually shredded cheese caramelized from the crepe pan. The galette has a tender center filled with a variety of toppings and mâche, my favorite lettuce.
So, what did we order?
Danny ordered the ham, egg, roasted mushrooms, Emmental cheese and mâche galette. I had the one with spicy beef, red cheddar, onion confit and mâche.
There’s a lively market atmosphere, packed with diners grabbing a galette and wandering through the stalls, or enjoying it at a nearby square. After tasting one ourselves, it was easy to understand why so many people recommend Lulu as a must-visit stop in the Marais—the galettes are hearty, flavorful, and downright delicious. Here are a few more photos from around the market.
Café des Arts
We had lunch at Café des Arts at Place de la Contrescarpe on our Rue Mouffetard walk I mentioned above. Here is a perfect example of lower prices away from the main tourist monuments. We chose the daily menu special “formule du midi” which comes with a glass of wine included. Danny couldn’t resist trying the croque-monsieur again, as this time it’s made with smoked salmon and comes with a salad, fries and wine for 13 euros ($15). I ordered the beef lasagna, salad and wine for 14 euros ($16). Prices include tax and tip, what a concept when you pay people a living wage with benefits. It is homemade, large size portions, served hot from their ovens and is delicious. Sadly, with the fresh baguette they also served on the side, we are too stuffed for dessert… this time.
I’ll add a collage of a few other meals and treats, as there are just way too many to write about individually.
A relaxing weekend
This weekend we’re slowing down things even more by not having any set plans. The weather is beautiful and the weekend is the perfect time for an antique market. I wanted to see if there are any pop-up antique and vintage markets. I always check Vide-Greniers to find any listings for antiques or “brocantes”. They offer the same thrill of discovery as Paris’s famous permanent flea markets, but are located in neighborhoods or local squares. The one I found stated there would be 250-300 vendors. So, off we went. The three day event spans several streets and was a lot of fun. We even found a jacket from Louisiana embroidered with Thibodaux on it. On another table there are antique artificial human eyes. Hmm, I wonder if they are “new old stock” or used? I think they must be for a special type of collector.
Dinner with Maxine
Tonight is dinner with Maxine, who’s living and working at a beautiful hotel in Paris while she goes to school. She’s the daughter of our friends we spent a week with in our recent post on visiting friends in the countryside. We had a awesome dinner catching up with her.
Sunday came around and we decided to picnic in Danny’s favorite park, Jardin du Luxembourg. The creation of the garden started in 1612 when King Henry IV’s widow, Marie de Medici, built the Luxembourg Palace as her new residence. It’s an incredibly beautiful park and awesome for picnics.
Tucked away in the Luxembourg Gardens stands a smaller bronze version of the Statue of Liberty. Sculptor Bartholdi donated the original bronze model to Paris in 1900, and it spent more than a century in the gardens before it was moved to the Musée d’Orsay for preservation. This replica bronze statue stands beside an American oak tree planted in memory of the victims of the September 11, 2001 attacks, symbolizing the long friendship between France and the United States.
Avenue des Champs-Élysées
We decide to eat at the original location of Le Relais de Venice “son entrecôte” that opened in 1959. It’s the start of the chain of steak frites restaurants around the world run by the owner’s children. It’s our favorite steak frites. You still get served two plates of steak frites per person and all the fries you can eat. It’s tender and delicious!
Since we needed to stretch after our huge meal, we walked from the Arc de Triomphe to the Place de la Concorde. Along the way, we stopped to see the hotel that Louis Vuitton is creating in a 1898 building next to its flagship store on the Champs- Élysées. It’s a secret as to what it’ll look like, until it’s finished in 2026. So, for the moment its facade is an enormous Louis Vuitton monogram trunk! Oh, and did I mention the rates are projected to be between $10,000-$100,000 per night?
Record Breaking Heat
We are in Paris during a sweltering, historic May heat wave. The highest May temperatures recorded soaring into the mid 90s. It’s 95 degrees today. The weather feels more like July than Spring. We read in the news that it’s due to a high-pressure system pulling hot air from Africa and trapping it over France. The heat is shattering temperature records across the country this week.
It’s been especially difficult without air conditioning in homes, apartments, most stores and restaurants. Sadly, we read in the news that there have been 7 deaths due to the heat wave so far. Thankfully, our apartment is well insulated and with the shutters closed and fan on it’s been fine. We open the windows and balcony in the mornings and evenings when it’s 60-70 degrees to cool things off. But, we have to shorten our time when we’re out walking around during the heat of the day, as it’s stifling.
Still our favorite restaurant
Tucked away on a quiet street in the Latin Quarter, Les Papilles is still our favorite restaurant. We keep returning every time we’re in town. It delivers a memorable experience we talk about long after our trip ends. This cozy bistro consistently gets rave reviews for its atmosphere, fresh French cuisine, and excellent wine selection. The chef serves a set menu based on what’s fresh and available at the market. So you won’t know what’s on the menu until you arrive, although I suppose you can call the morning of to ask.
It’s also a wine store, so you select a bottle from the shelf and pay a small corkage fee to enjoy with your meal. We ate at lunch and the two course meal is 35 euros, but there’s also the full four courses at 45 euros. But you’d better arrive starving if you choose the full menu, because the portions are huge. They follow the same format of a seasonal soup, braised meat dish, vegetables, cheese, and panna cotta for dessert.
We shared a large tureen of cauliflower soup with fresh herbs and Spanish ham served cold due to the heat wave. Then came out a platter with two beautiful lamb shanks that the chef had braised for over three hours served with Provençal vegetables. We ended the meal sharing a tropical fruit panna cotta. All courses are beautifully prepared dishes rich in flavor from start to finish. So, if your taste buds are looking for an authentic Paris bistro that focuses on quality regional ingredients and classic French cooking, Les Papilles is well worth the slight splurge. You can reserve in advance online and Bertrand is always quick to respond.
Where to find a beautiful view of Paris rooftops for free?
There are two great places to enjoy a view of Paris for free. Both are in departments stores right next to one another. So, it’s only free if you can resist shopping while you’re there.
Galeries Lafayette
Walking into Galeries Lafayette feels more like entering a grand palace than a department store. Founded in 1894 as a tiny shop, it grew into one of Paris’s most famous landmarks. The spectacular Art Nouveau building opened in 1912, crowned by its massive stained-glass dome that floods the store with colorful light and Belle Époque elegance.
Even if you are not shopping, the building itself is worth the visit. We loved wandering beneath the ornate balconies before heading to the huge rooftop terrace for one of the best free panoramic views in Paris. The easiest way to visit is to enter the store at the “La Coupole” entrance. Walk to the cosmetics and perfume area, which is below the incredible dome. After gawking a bit at the dome, head to the third floor to take the glass walkway (also free) suspended midway into the dome overlooking the floor below. Finally, the outdoor terrace is on the 7th floor. If you take the escalator across from the Dior boutique, it goes all the way to the top. If you take one of the others, it stops on the 6th floor and you’ll need to walk up the final flight of stairs.
Printemps
Printemps opened in 1865 and quickly became one of Paris’s great department stores during the city’s grand Haussmann-era transformation. The store is famous for its stunning Art Nouveau architecture, especially the colorful stained-glass dome rebuilt after a major fire in the early 1900s. Head to the 6th floor to view the stained glass dome. It’s in the women’s building (Printemps Femme).
You can then walk up the final flight of stairs to the terrace on the 7th floor. There’s also an elevator, if you prefer. The terrace is much smaller than the one at Galeries Lafayette as much of the space is taken over by a Veuve Cliquot Cafe. It’s still a great view and we are the only ones up here.
We decided to make a pitstop to the restroom by the elevator. It’s one of those accessible men’s and women’s toilets near the elevator. I walked in and there are windows facing the Sacre Coeur Church. A beautiful hidden view you’re not able to see unless you pop into the restroom!
A snow covered mountain cave in the middle of Paris?
When we first spotted the Pont Neuf, we thought Paris had somehow grown a mountain cave overnight. The city’s oldest bridge had disappeared beneath a massive rocky cavern created by artist JR. It felt like stumbling into a movie set in the middle of the Seine. The art installation pays homage to a legendary 1985 wrapping of the bridge, proving once again that Paris never stops reinventing itself. One visit, and you’re admiring a 400-year-old bridge. The next, you’re walking through a giant cave where a bridge used to be.
French artist JR wrapped the bridge in a massive inflatable structure called La Caverne du Pont-Neuf, creating the illusion of a giant mountain cave stretching across the river. It will officially open June 6th – 28th, and then pedestrians will be allowed to enter the cave by walking across the bridge. Photos don’t quite prepare you for the scale of JR’s creation. The installation stretches approximately 394 feet long, 66 feet wide, and rises to about 59 feet high.
Quite the sight to see a snow capped mountain range in the middle of Paris’s record breaking heat wave. That’s the magic of Paris. One day you’re admiring centuries of history. The next day you’re staring at a mountain where a bridge used to be.
And somehow, in Paris, it all makes perfect sense.
Surprising Moments
What surprised us most during this extended stay was how comfortable Paris began to feel. The city that once seemed enormous and intimidating slowly became familiar. We recognized our favorite cafés and learned which streets felt peaceful early in the morning. We found local markets where vendors smiled patiently at our imperfect French. However, we must be speaking fairly well, as they no longer automatically respond in English anymore. Somewhere along the way, Paris stopped feeling like a destination and started feeling like part of our routine, a second home.
That is the magic of returning. Many travelers spend their time chasing new places, but there is something deeply rewarding about revisiting a city you love. Each return uncovers something new. A hidden courtyard. A tiny bookstore. A neighborhood bakery with the best croissant you’ve ever tasted. Paris always seems to hold yet another surprise waiting around the next corner.
The longer we stayed, the more Paris began to feel familiar. We learned which bakery had our favorite bread and croissants. We found ourselves slowing down enough to notice the small details — the smell of fresh bread drifting through the streets early in the morning, the sound of dishes clinking from open apartment windows, and the peaceful rhythm of everyday Parisian life. Those little moments became the memories we’ll carry home with us.
And perhaps that is why we keep coming back. Because Paris is not just a city you visit once. It is a city you experience differently every single time.
Slow Travel Lessons
Slow travel has taught us something important: you do not always need to chase brand-new destinations to feel inspired. Sometimes returning to a place you already love allows you to experience it more deeply than before. And for us, Paris will always be one of those places. Not because it’s perfect. But because every time we return, it somehow feels both exciting and familiar all at once — like reconnecting with an old friend who still has many surprises left to share.
Au revoir, until the next time we come back home, Paris…